Pathfinder history 2007 part 1

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So many of you have asked about my Sahara Trek trip that I decided to write a diary

Just to thank those of you that sponsored me, and to inform you that my grand total is somewhere in the region of £4200 total. There are 3 people I wish to thank for their considerable personal contributions but I will not embarrass them by naming them they know who they are, so a very big personal thank you.

This is my account of my recent life changing travels across the Sahara, along with 33 equally as "nutty" people. Every one of us was different, and we all had different reasons for being there. But we were all there for one purpose, TO RAISE MONEY FOR CHARITY.

Charities represented were: Anthony Nolan Trust, Wheelpower, Ronald McDonald House, Mental Health Foundation, Royal Marsden hospital, and the National Association for Colitis and Crohns, to name but a few. Some of these people were walking for extremely personal reasons, i.e. loss of a loved one, friends and one inspirational young lady walked for the hospital that had cured her of cancer as a young child. She was an inspiration, as not only was she the youngest in our group, but she still has serious health issues now, for which she has to take regular life saving medication.

Day 1 Saturday 17th March- woke up had already packed the night before and my day started by watching my youngest play football. From there some friends dropped him home and Simon took me to Heathrow. I met up with my fellow trekkers and support staff. We flew to Ouarzazate/Marrakech via Casablanca. Got to bed at 2am.

Day 2 Sunday 18th, up at 6.30am (only 4hrs sleep!) had breakfast and a briefing. We travelled for 5hrs on a bus to M’Hamid, our starting point. Our drive had taken us over the Jebel Sarho Mountains and down the " Valley of a thousand Kasbahs" into the desert. We stopped briefly in Zagora to buy a shash (native headscarf) and our last "proper" toilet stop and cold drink before the desert. On arrival at our starting point, we had lunch (salad, tuna, cheese, mint tea and banana) whilst the cameleers loaded up the camels with our luggage and more importantly water.

Our late afternoon trek took us across the flat open plain and into Erg Lihoudi, our first taste of small sand dunes where we made camp at the edge of the dunes for the night. We had a hot chocolate drink on arrival, and grabbed a tent for the night!

Washing was a wipe around with baby wipes and the toilets were three separate holes in the ground, with a separate tent and toilet roll for each. What an experience!

Evening meal was soup, lamb stew (umm gave that a miss!) and tinned pears and red wine.

Bed was early, 9.45pm; everyone was tired after travelling, lack of sleep the night before, and the early start that morning.

Day 3 Monday 19th, the full colour of the landscape erupts as the sun rises and I was up to see it! 6am ugh, (worse than having to get up for work). Hot porridge with fig jam was the order of the day, followed by coffee or tea. Everyone was chirpy and helped break camp, some were more willing to volunteer than others! After a briefing and stretches, sun -screen and water filling, we were on our way across the Erg Lihoudi. Lahcen our young guide was singing in Arabic as he led us on our journey and Hassan, the other guide was singing at the rear of the party with the cameleers. We had 6 camels, 4 white and 2 brown, Ali one of the white camels was famous as he had a part in several films including Troy.

We walked across the small dunes and around the larger ones, amongst the dunes were Tamarisk trees that still managed to flourish in this harsh environment. Continuing through the small dunes, we could see the Jebel Bani Mountains to the North and dunes to the South. After a good 4 hours trekking and many toilet and filling up water bottle breaks, we stopped for lunch in the shade of a large tree.

Lunch was salad, fish, cheese, bread and fresh fruit and mint tea. We rested here for a couple of hours to avoid the mid day heat, not that it stopped Emma and I finding a nice quiet place to sunbathe away from the Cameleers and Berbers. It is an offence for these people to see exposed white flesh, and also they needed to do their own private praying in peace as well.

After a rest, we continued on our way, this time walking out of the dunes and onto a flat rocky plateau, where we made camp near L’oued L’autruche, close to a well.

Today we had walked over 20km around 6 hours in total, and when we arrived at camp there were 6 single tents, 3 toilet ones again and the other 3 were showers, in the middle of the desert!

What an experience, the shower consisted of a very large bucket with hose reel attached and three separate outlets that had a tap and a sprinkler head, but something was better than nothing. However, the water was freezing, of course it had come from the well, so trying not to inhale water was difficult whilst screaming at how cold it was.

Tonight our evening meal was soup, stew and fresh fruit and more red wine. We also had Moroccan entertainment provided by the Cameleers, Berbers and guides with a huge camp-fire, I and a few others also showed willing and danced Moroccan style!

Day 4 Tuesday 20th, up early, breakfasts, briefing and stretches. We broke camp and walked across flat open country with the camels not too far behind. This time, the surface of the desert was firm and stony with tough grass poking through in places. After around 4km we came to the edge of some low sand dunes, we skirted north of these to walk on soft sand and stony plateau, this is where we found occasional fossilised sea creatures, Belemnites. The hottest part of the day was spent having lunch in the shade, with time to relax and refill our water bottles. In the afternoon we headed across many beautifully formed low sand dunes to an area called Bougarnne, where we saw several large dunes and clumps of palm trees. The walking today was tougher and the weather was hotter than it had been on previous days and, whilst I was unaffected, many were starting to suffer with the heat. We had sand in our boots from the small soft sand dunes where we had sunk into them. We walked approximately 19km, into larger sand dunes and our campsite was perched on a bluff overlooking the dunes.

We were all pleased to get in and rest after 7 hours of walking. It had been very hot, again our wash for the night was good old baby wipes, sand is amazing it gets everywhere!

After dinner, a nosebleed and more red wine (regular occurrence, this wine) we went to bed. In our tent were 7 females. We had all made the decision to sleep outside on this night, but unfortunately one of the girls was unwell, so only 6 of us made it out under the stars. This was great as the night was so dark (what no street lights) and the stars so bright and very peaceful. Oh except for Nick and Marcus who snored like troopers, and the Camels who threw out the occasional groan or two!

Day 5 Wednesday 21st, up nice and early as sleeping outside does make it easy, my day began with yet another nosebleed. Our un-well buddy was feeling a little better and opted to walk. So after a good breakfast, stretch out and briefing, we found our selves on our way by 8am. We headed off down a gully onto the desert floor, a dried up river -bed where we found the occasional shell (one less in the Sahara now as I brought it home for my sons). The Hamada (stony desert floor) was very flat. Here we saw three donkeys, one of which was a baby, a few lizards, and a great many scarab and dung beetles. We had several short climbs across cross dry and dusty plains, but managed to find one solitary tree to have lunch under. It was still very hot but the wind had picked up, so as well as our usual salad lunch we managed to eat sand as well, adding some extra crunch. The Shash came in very useful today (if, a little too warm for my liking) keeping the sand out of our hair and eyes as lots of little sand storms whirled past us, one or two of which, we were caught in.

With the hottest part of the day past, we set off across more Hamada until we crossed a ridge. In the distance we saw camp and also the spectacular view of Chgaga, the largest sand dunes of the region.

We had walked for 7 hours again today, and were dirty from the sand being blown across the Hamada, so the 3 shower tents we could see were very welcome. However, it got colder because of the wind picking up so the cold shower on Monday was positively roasting in comparison to the one today. Whilst we were waiting for dinner and the showers I played football (in flip-flops!!!) against the Berbers and Cameleers.

Local Nomads selling their hand made goods of beaded jewellery, and polished fossilised stones also visited us. The Nomadic children had beautiful brown eyes and gratefully took anything we gave them, not money and sweets but paper and crayons. Sweets and money were not to be given, as dental care was non-existent in the desert and money would make them beggars and the Berbers and guides told us they have to earn money by selling their things.

By this stage the wind had really picked up and several of the tents had to be secured during the course of the evening, it was a quieter evening in the food tent tonight as a few people were not feeling great, I of course continued as always.

We went to bed early as people were not well, the sand storm continued into the night, and when we awoke in the morning, we were covered in sand, sleeping bags, inside the tent, kit bags, you name it.

Day 6 Thursday 22nd, I named this day "black Thursday", it was a very cold and windy start to the day and at least 7 people had been really unwell during the night, including the Doc (Derek). People were quiet and very subdued we had breakfast, and a small briefing and broke camp without the morning stretches, as we headed over to Chgaga, it was touch and go whether we would be able to climb the sand dune. But as the morning broke properly, the wind dropped and thankfully the sun came out again, so by the time we reached Chgaga after passing Berber camps and loose camels (not wild apparently) it was agreed the healthy and fit would climb, following Hassan up the largest dune. The climb was probably the most strenuous, 100m of very soft sand where you sank a few inches each time but what a thrill to reach the top. It was hot hard work and I was the first one to reach the summit! The views from the top were breath taking and you could see for miles. To the north was the Hamada and Jebel Bani and the south, were more rolling dunes. Once everyone was up the top we had team photographs, lots of tee-shirt changes for all the different charities involved.

Of course having got to the top of Chgaga the largest dune, we had to get down again, not an easy task, 100m drop back to the Hamada. The challenge this time was to run all the way back down, but rather than the meandering climb up it was a sheer drop. But as always I was up for the challenge, I grabbed Emma’s hand and we ran down together, we whooped and laughed the whole way, it was hilarious watching the others come down, some did much the same as Emma and I, others were more gentle in their approach.

After regrouping at the bottom and a quick drink, we met up with the camels for a water stop and a walk through the low dunes, it was much warmer now and I was back in shorts and t-shirt. We spent the whole day amongst the dunes passing the occasional nomadic encampment and a small clump of palm trees, where we stopped for lunch and to tend to the sick. For the first time we were segregated as a group, all the poorly ones were asleep in the shade at one end of the mattresses and the others up the other end, I personally along with a few others, once we had eaten sat in the sun away from everyone, sun-bathing and chatting about how peaceful it was and how sad we were that it was nearly all over.

After a shorter rest than normal, we continued through the low dunes and in the late afternoon we finally reappeared from the dunes and headed out across flat desert between the acacia trees, to our campsite near a well (yippee another shower tonight) and just below the Jebel Bani. Today we had walked 20.8km and seen baby camels, some nomadic children and their families, who knew our guides and cameleers, and the one thing I did not expect to see in the desert, a hospital! This had recently been built and finished and was awaiting occupation.

Once in camp, the procedure of showers and getting ready for our evening meal was the order of the day; we also had a quarantine tent! All the sick people approximately 9 by this stage were to be kept together and away from the fit and healthy ones! Early night tonight all round -10pm.

Day 7 Friday 23rd, this was our last full day of walking, everyone woke up feeling happy and the news around the camp was most of the "sick" people had made excellent recoveries.

Breakfast was quickly eaten and stretches and briefings run through, and off we set across several kilometres of Hamada with dunes lying to the south. Gradually the acacia trees vanished and we were left in a spectacularly flat open saltpan. The distances are impossible to gauge and the views shimmer in the heat, today is the day of mirages, where on more than one occasion I thought I could see the sea! There is no cover out here at all; so going to the toilet requires a "buddy" to hold up your shash for decency!

The Berbers have put up a tent for lunch to provide some shelter, but they also put up a toilet tent too, this was an experience, as they required a pickaxe to break the desert floor. The desert floor looked like baked clay, it was extremely hot and hard, with little cracks in and enormous ants working away. Never mind, no matter how hard the floor, I still took myself away from the group and had 30 minutes in the sun.

We were getting pretty close to our hundredth kilometre now and the last few are done crossing this remote and desolate place, as we rounded the corner into camp we all stopped to regroup. We arranged ourselves into a line across the desert and all joined hands to cross the finishing line together, it is an emotional time for each and everyone. The Berbers, Cameleers, and guides greet us with their traditional music and song, we all cheer one another and hug and kiss each other, on this, our special achievement.

Once photos had been taken we meet in our tents and after a wash with a baby-wipe we begin our celebrations, wine is flowing by the bottle, or two, or more. We swap tales, advice and anecdotes on life and we eat.

Tonight we have another campfire and more songs and traditional music, plus the "hokey cokey", oh yes the wine has had its effect and we are dancing away, with the Berbers and having a great time. But it comes to an end and our sleeping bags call, so for the last night we all sleep out under the stars outside our tent door, Emma, Beth, Serena, Lucy, Teresa, Alison and I.

Day 8 Saturday 24th, most of us hardened walkers got up at 4am to catch the sunrise (what no head-ache) and with a very early breakfast we set off by 4.30am. We walked across the flat Hamada, initially in the dark and watched the sun rise behind us. As we continued, the terrain became very stony, we came to a manned "check-point", and we were allowed to pass for 6 cigarettes!

The trucks and the rest of the trekkers (who did not get up) caught up with us around 2hrs (10km) later after breaking camp, here we had our final group photos before we were loaded into the back of an open truck. We drove the last bumpy two hours across the desert piste to the tarmac road; the journey was exciting if not a little dusty. On arrival at the tarmac road we transferred to a lovely, clean, air-conditioned coach, which took us back to our hotel in Ouarzazate, where we could either relax or look around the local Kasbah.

I chose to relax by the hotel pool, and even braved the freezing water for a swim; a few gin and tonics later it no longer felt that cold.

We all showered and got dressed up for our celebration meal in town, more wine was consumed, some awards given and yes just one more nose bleed for me! Then we headed back to the hotel bar to boogie the night away………umm forgetting that we had to be up again at 4am for our connecting flight to Heathrow, maybe going to bed at 3.15am was not such a good idea, but you only do it once!

Day 9 Sunday 25th, on coach at 4am to depart Ouarzazate/Marrakech bound for London Heathrow via Casablanca airport and a 5h stop there. Arrived back in the UK at 17.15.

What an experience and such a great time, it is very hard to explain to someone who has not done this sort of challenge before, quite how you feel when you get back.

I was quite depressed for a few days after I got back and whilst for me the challenge was not difficult, a few words of advice I would give to others would be:

"Prepare physically and mentally to go into the desert and also to come back out again"

There is so much time and space; it changes your whole outlook on life and that is the biggest shock after you have achieved what you set out to do in the first place.

Texel basic course April

On Saturday April 28th about noon I walked into the hangar of the Paracentrum Texel for the start of our usual April/May course , wondering who had arrived already .Little did I know I would find everybody present already , most of them drooling over a mountain of green nylon and webbing : the

first batch of Pathfinder parachutes had arrived . Mike , Terence, Herve and our supply specialist Frank were hard at work inspecting and packing the mains , aided by newcomers Steve Blacketer and Baz Cox .Stewart Fitzell was there just to make a few jumps to practice for Operation Napier.

Willem de Boo and Brord were keeping an eye on things while Monique did a free fall jump with her own square to see the island from above .

The course was told by Brord to follow him to the student field , taking your camera along was obligatory . Halfway to the runway Mike caught something on the radio : did that guy say Lancaster

and seven miles out ? Yes , the Battle of Britain Lancaster did a ( very ) low pass over the airfield and the parachute centre , you could in fact see the grins and the white of the eyes of the people aboard .Most people got some good shots of this vintage aircraft , just to make sure it repeated the performance on the Sunday .

Click here to see video of Lancaster Bomber over Texel

By then we had started the course , all admin stuff had been done and we were surrounded by the free fallers who despite the hard wind tried to get as many jumps done during the Boogie . Brord had to leave for the mainland to go to work , so I took the rest of the course through some repetitions as the wind was too strong for round canopies . Hubert and the French detachment also made it to the island to get current for jumping into Normandy with the Liberty Jump Team . Monday , the official

'Queen's Day ' again too windy , even the free fallers left early . We all had a good evening in the Kievit as usual and hoped for jumpable weather soonish . Unfortunately it was not until Wednesday that our new kit could be tested : we were all on time for the first stick , beating the ABMP who only had seven jumpers to our 14 anyway . Everybody liked the new parachutes , with the possible exception of David who had a huge twist and ended up in the farmland behind the hangar.

Then we started packing , which as it was all new to us took some time , with a lunch provided ( as usual ) by Frank and Terence . The second jump later that day was the first where Baz Cox found he could always get a job as a water diviner should his present job end . The chute was dried and everybody packed , alas too late for jump number three . That had to wait till next day , with the added bonus of Dutch marines doing an evacuation exercise , flying in by helicopter and securing the airfield . Pity the Lynx flew back empty , we practiced the helicopter exit for the course and they would not let us use their shiny toy . After jumping ( yes , Baz again ...) and packing it started getting too windy again , so back to the Kievit with a smaller group as the Belgian/French group had left , as had Arie Schuurmans and his mate who picked the right day to come to Texel for a jump .

After the usual good evening it was too windy again on Friday so we all decided to leave Texel to go

home or in the case of Stewart and Steve to the general vicinity of Putten to participate in Napier , of which more by another distinguished author .

All in all a good week with a very nice bunch of people ( again ! ) , the only pity was that this time we could not finish the course due to high winds . During the week I spoke to Ron Sprong about the Antonov AN-2 which should be back in time for our September course . So people who want to jump from this big biplane : contact Brord , Nick or Roy and book for the course leading up to Arnhem

weekend . Hope to see a lot of people there , till then stay safe , Ron .

Operation NAPIER

Date: May 5th 2007

On august 28th 1944 the RAF Special Duties Squadron took off for a parachute drop in Holland. On board were 3 agents of the Dutch branch of the SOE, called BBO (Bureau Bijzondere Opdrachten / Special Assignments Desk). The agents were Joop Luykenaar (Mission Shooting), Jaap Hinderink (Mission Hunting) and Jaap Beekman (Mission Charades). They were dropped "blind" which meant without a DZ crew. The dispatcher said there was too much wind and that they could not jump. The 3 agents refused to listen to the dispatcher and jumped anyway. Landing was hard, Luykenaar said, but it was beautiful, the ground smelled as lovely as Holland possibly could. After landing 2 pigeons were released to let the base in the UK know they landed all right.

The 3 agents went to work. Hundreds of messages were sent to the UK, weapon drops organized, weapon classes given to the underground. Communication lines, bridges, railways and roads were sabotaged, intelligence was collected about V1 and V2 launch sites. Beekman slipped behind allied lines when the Canadian forces moved forward in march 1945. He arrived for a debriefing in the UK half April. Mission "Charades' had lasted 8 months. The other missions ended around April 5th when they were liberated by the Canadians.

On April 12th 1945 at 00.15hrs two Stirling bombers of the 620 squadron (RAF) flew over a field between the towns of Nijkerk en Voorthuizen (Holland). This field was known as DZ NAPIER. Light beacons were activated by the Dutch resistance and 9 paras jumped from the first Stirling, 8 from the second. This was a drop of the SAS under command of Capt. Holland. 10 containers and one package were also dropped. Part of this 17 man group were two Dutch sergeants, J. van Beek and A. Kuypers. Within 30 minutes all the paras and supplies were off the DZ and on their way to the RV point 300 yards north of the DZ. The SAS team was split in three groups and went to work blocking bridges and railways.

RAF recce picture of the DZ, made on March 23rd 1945: